Friday, June 24, 2011

Palava Managment & Wrapping Up

As I had mentioned earlier, this week my group- Team Leesha- was responsible for handling a mediation/dialouge/problem solving workshop for two youth groups in Montserrado County, Moulton Corner. Palava management is the Liberian English word for "conflict management" and so our first steps were to interview the parties and figure out the larger context of the "conflct", as well as if there were any other parties involved. In the end, we came together to decide there was a conflict between YALD (Youth Alliance for Development)- yes the L is part of the name- and the Brotherhood. One group felt marginalized from the other due to different levels of education, as well as engagement in certain social activities. There also seemed to be a third party, that here in Liberia is represented as the municipal representative for the youth, appointed by the councilman for the city. Biases from certain leaders within the communities and misperceptions had brought us to a meeting point. They had never actually came together in a "professional" setting to discuss the issue, though they interact daily as acquaintances and sometimes friends. It was very interesting thinking how we were going to address the session while the participants were hesitant to dive into specifics. But overall, it was very successful- for three hours we discussed perceptions of the conflict and mis-perceptions, improved communication and in the end, developed a plan of action. The organizations were going to agree to work together under the youth rep. from the city and send reps from each to each others meetings- as well as organize a futbol tournament as a sign of reconciliation for their members. It was a great experience and afterwards we all "broke bread" if you will and had dinner, with a little bit of music to add to the fun.

The night before this merriment however, took on a more serious tone. We went on what Don Bosco calls a Night Visit- which is essential a night drive around the city to certain locations, looking for children that live on the street. The intention is to try and convince them to come with us to Saivio ( A Don Bosco rehabilitation/transit center) or at the least, take the bread and juice we have. I tried to prepare myself mentally for the conditions they may be living in, the smells I may encounter and in basically, the discomfort I was likely to face; as well as conversations I might have with the kids? What would I say?

We started the night at 11pm and had intended to stay until 2am. It was my group, Chiddi, Hashmi, Andrew and James. We went to locations Don Bosco has found children in the past and realized we were a tad early, so waited around until 12:30 or so for the kids to settle into their "go to" locations, which considering the rain, was somewhere under a roof- usually behind a business or in an outdoor market, sleeping on the tables or walls. At other times, aka not rainy season, we found out many sleep ontop of roofs. We encountered 7 children at first in one location- one who had actually been at Saivio 3 times before and kept leaving. The others were asleep and Hashmi did most of the talking, though the general sentiment was do not disturb. I also found two kids in the market asleep and intertwined with each other for warm I assumed or maybe for a feeling of security. But that was definitely something that struck me. These kids stick together and have their own routines despite the unstable lives they are considered to be living. The other thing is that the community knows they are there and they all look out for each other in a way, keeping track of who is where. I kept on thinking about my own attempted runaway for about 2hours when I was a brat of a child, I can;t even remember what age. Mom, not sure if you remember that day when I actually packed my bag and left the house- though I think you were in the kitchen. But then once I left I though- jeeh- where can I go? So while I thought I sat around the corner by the dead-end, until I decided anywhere I went would be with someone I knew, who would be most likely to call my mom. I never even considered the street. And so for me seeing these kids sleep here and then having an people offer food and a bed, would seem like a welcomed disturbance- but as the night grew on I became to understand it is not about security, but freedom. They like living day to day as long as they are the ones deciding how that day goes. Now if that reasoning would be enough to keep me on the street, I doubt it, but for them it seems to be. In the end, we looked elsewhere but found no one, except the initially sleeping seven- where one child among them said come back tomorrow. And so for me I felt helpless not being able to get them of the street, but for Don Bosco, the sad reality is that these kids are always on the street and if you can't convince them today there is always tomorrow.

Naturally, after a long night I would sleep until noon or so, but these last couple of days has not afforded me that luxury. Today, we had one last final training that all three groups collaborated on and went from 9-4 and now I am hoping tomorrow might be the day. Though considering it is the last full day in the city, I would hate to sleep it away. I may just power through tomorrow in to our social night (farewell get together) and then pack on Sunday for our departure.

I already have an idea of what movies I shall be watching on the plane and hopefully, when I get back on Monday I can have a hot shower and then if it is nice enough sit by the pool. That would be ideal. So this is most likely my last post- its been real. Catch ya'll stateside.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Rounding out the education

Our general introduction to groups we meet with here is, "We are students from.... and we are all studying conflict analysis, etc." We also have predominantly been working in local communities, but this weekend and yesterday we got a glimpse into other aspects. On Saturday, a select few- all women, I may add- woke up at 6:00 am to head to Kakata to the Morris-American Rubber Company- sounds exhilarating I know. But actually, while the guys slept, we were being educated on the whole process of rubber making, a very lucrative business here and one that consumes much of the land. We learned about the roots, the planting techniques and the trees themselves, as well as the process of "tapping"- the extraction of the latex to then form into rubber. The trees generally take 7 years to grow to tapping status and last 45 years. The workers are responsible for tapping 550 trees a day, then carrying the wet latex to the factory to be converted, as well as being responsible for the upkeep of the land surrounding the trees. This farm differed from Firestone, in that they rely more on people power- creating jobs- while also considering the environment. They avoid chemicals and machinery to clear space and insure the trees are not harmed- while as they call it "buying good will" with the local community. The company itself is actually the largest Liberian owned rubber company in the country and exports mostly tire grade rubber. We even went as far as to see the machinery used to dry the, press and compact the rubber- WARNING: IT STINKS. I literally almost passed out from trying to breathe soley from my mouth- for sake of trying to save my nose- while also not trying to offend. Luckily, the machines were so loud I don't think our tour guide noticed the change in my voice from doing so.

After the "business" aspect of this field trip- it was still only 11 o'clock, but we proceed for lunch to the owner's home. It was on the property and very nice. I walked in and felt if this was in the U.S. I would still feel out of place. But the funny thing was even though the home was large, comfortable and well equipped- the owner was humble enough to cook the food himself for us- which was delectable. The best Liberian food I have had yet, not to mention he also offered us any beverages we wanted- so in an effort to bond with the men I had a beer at the bar and talked politics...thankfully, back up came soon, because I did not realize the level I had entered talking with three Liberian men who were here during the war and backed Charles Taylor. But overall, differences aside, it was a very entertaining morning.

Then on Monday, after our debrief with Don Bosco about the past week's training and activities, we went to the U.S. Embassy. We met with McCulley, a political/economic advisor, as well as specifically responsible for building capacity of the local police unit. This led us to discussions about budget flaws, and how there is not enough to hire the police staff necessary, because currently there is only 4,200 officers for the whole country! We also discussed the U.S. involvement in this capacity, and identified that per capita Liberia has the 2nd largest US AID program in Africa, behind Sudan. We were then joined by the ambassador herself, Ms. Greenfield, who expanded on the financial role of the U.S. indicating that, that is the largest role we play because during the times of war the U.S. was not present and Bush made it seem as if we had something to owe them. I inquired about the plan for waning the country off of the U.S. financial support, but no specific answer was given. These discussions then lead into the political scene of the country with the upcoming election and it was here that U.S. foreign policy was scripted at its finest. After asking if the progress Liberia has experienced, would be reversed should Sirleaf not be re-elected, McCulley responded immediately with the perspective that the U.S. does not do "that"- whatever "that" means. I felt as if he interpreted the questions as one of U.S. secret agenda, to which he responded democracy, democracy, democracy. The whole session to be frank, felt superficial and as if it was merely a courtesy instead of a discussion for the purposes of education and learning. We were even thanked for our observations on the country, after our visits to different regions- which was ironic, considering we were not asked for them once. I basically left dissatisfied and furthermore, turned off by government work. Not so much because the work they do is insignificant, but because the people I would be forced to interact with on a daily basis, leave much to be desired.

This week, we are again commuting, but now to an area within Montserrado county- called Virginia. We are working on a mediation case between two youth groups and keep finding different sides to the story and other parties involved. Today, was our first day meeting them, basically just trying to set the scene and gage initially viewpoints, but as for how the coming days shape up, that will be a surprise to us all. I'll be sure to keep ya'll posted!

Thursday, June 16, 2011

If I had a bucket list...

...and I don't, but if I did- I imagine some things that occurred this week would be checked off, as well as undesired experiences.

Learn African dance: check. we can all thank Katherine for taking me out to the neighborhood hang out, where I picked up some fresh moves and performed essentially in the middle of the circle with Cecily. But sadly, our lesson was cut short by rain.

Experience most uncomfortable drive of my life: unwanted check. For some reason, even though this drive was shorter than the road to Nimba, it surpassed it in discomfort. For starters, even though I had my man Jones driving, our usual car was not present. We had a smaller car, with seats in the back as well- bench style- but not the same amount of leg room. So six of us + our bags left Danny and I cramped in the back with no break for stretching of my legs. That + the rain + the fact the door of the car was not closed all the way= water pouring all our closet person to the door= me= not happy. So now I am cramped and wet, and by this point we happen to reach the end of the good road, so now bumps and head swinging here and there + the banging of the door which isn't fully closed= me over the edge vexed. I think this was the first time I was truly just unpleasant and I had no intention of changing that once the car ride stopped, until I had time to relax and listen to my ipod.

Eat hidden (fresh) fish: call is still being decided. Now in my later years I have developed my appetite to usually eat anything or try everything. Though, whole fish or fillet fish I don't normally enjoy. And so I have tried to hold an open mind here, but this people keep challenging me. We pulled up for lunch and was told there was ust palm oil rice- okay sounds plain enough- nope. Its rice, yes, but with the "soup" on the side- which is redish and has a whole fish-bones and all in it- yumm. And this was not my only encounter with fish- they also dry the fish- like jerky and I was offered some. That time I said nope.

Most Sleepless night: unwanted check. Let me set the scene for ya'll. We had a one level house to ourselves- which looked great. There was five bedrooms and five of us- two bathrooms a living room and a front patio. Spacious. The rooms weren't lavish, but had a full size mattress on the ground and a electricity that we paid extra for from 7-7. Now I don't expect much and actually pride myself on being able to fall alseep anywhere- so I tried to live up to this claim night one. Well, that failed. I slept on the mattress for a whole half hour- and then moved to the wooden couch to "sleep". Between things crawling around, and the hot air + noises from all around outside it proved difficult. So trying for night two- changing it up and putting my mattress in the living room to try and cach the cross breeze, but no. Earlier that night, all of us sitting out in front with lights off inside heard a disturbing pounding and cat noises. Investigating, we found out a cat lives in the ceiling and there is a hole where it could possible enter the house- so scratch the living room. I moved into someone elses room with my mattress and thought this would make me feel better having roommates to rely. And sure enough it would prove instrumental as at 1:30 am I hear a noise. And after listening closely for 30 minutes I call out to Jessica and Cecily to turn on the light and we catch a mouse. Yes, we knew they were around, but we actually caught it in the bag and had to bring it outside. Night two therefore also proved as a dud for sleeping. But thankfully, with this lack of sleep + working during the day I passed out the third night and did not wake until at least 3:30am- progress..

Watch rare lunar eclipse: check. So considering I could probably run into more "widlife" in the house, we spent a good time on the porch. And good thing too because Wednesday night, we saw the moon wasn't as bright or high as normal- so we watched and sure enough an eclipse was beginning to take place. Along with this children started drumming for the eclipse from all sides around our house and did not cease until it was complete. And the greatness was multiplied by the fact we all stayed up to watch it and Jones joined us. Just when I think he is a simple man- he starts talking about defying gravity boots and all these books he reads, just a wonderful surprise.

Become an African child: check. Now I am certainly a proud Italian-American, but most of us know my 'secret' desire to be something else and today, I was temporarily adopted as an African child. It was The Day of the African Child, remembering those children in Soweto South Africa in 1976 who died during a protest. So we marched in Roberts Port, Cape Mount, Liberia to celebrate and raise awareness this year for street children. We also got to sit on stage- cause we are white, so we must be important here, or so it seems to go- and watch students perform dramas on issues the community faces. And yes I recognize the counter intuitiveness of sitting a few people on the stage and having the performances take place on the level floor.
This aside, considering my parents were not present, the community accepted all of us as African children. Woot woot- I'll take it for an hour. Plus I turned to Jones and then asked him if he wants another kid, plus father's day is on Sunday- so really its a win win..he is considering it. Anthony Castelli, maybe you can sway him but enlightening him on the perks of having me as a daughter.

Drive a standard car: check. Now I enjoyed my week immensely- but this was truly a highlight like no other. Jones, let me drive the car. I had been telling him I drive automatic at home and have never tried standard- though in theory I understand how. So out in Cape Mount I took the car for a spin, and Jones said if he had to score me he would get me an 80% on the account that the first time I turned the car on it stalled. But after that it was all uphill!

All these highlights together- Cape Mount really was a great escape. The landscape was beautiful with a mix of lush greens and hills and a beautiful beach that we went to twice. Though the waves were very intimidating, crashing right on the shore line. It was great to get out of the city,even if I experienced discomfort along the way. And any challenging experience just makes me handle the next one better. Also the training we held for high school students was fun and challenging- making me feel productive. And now we are back in Monrovia, getting ready for the next ten days we have left here in Liberia...lemme hear you say HEYY!

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Half way to the finish line

This day marks the midway point of the trip. And though it has felt long- it also feels as if I am only just becoming acquainted with the country on a deeper level. I have made more friends around the guest house, where we are staying, as well as built on friendships I tried to establish early on with Jones, Hashme and Martha. It was easy to do so this week especially because as I mentioned, we commuted from Monrovia to the county of Margibi- specifically Kakata.

It was a slow start. Monday due to the car troubles- we didn't work and just hung around in Monrovia- though we made the most of it and got a semi-tour of government buildings as we made our way to pick fabric for our African garb. And you would think- how many patterns can they make right?- WRONG. I was overwhelmed yet again, taking for granted my experience in Kenya. Liberian fabric was just as unique and difficult to choose from. But in the end, I forced myself to decided so that I could take it to the tailor, where more decisions were to be made. As for the end result- I will no next weekend- and whether I choose to share that and fashion it in the states is still hanging in the balance.

Then Tuesday, we got out to Kakata and met with many people. The superintendent of the country, the deputy director of development, the mayor of the county, the gender office of the county, the YMCA (ya know, they have everything for us to enjoy + we can hang out with all the boys). and radio stations. Basically meet and greet overload. I felt like I was on my own personal tour and just giving my fans some love, which is not far from the truth, considering most of these visits were protocol. Can you imagine though- a group of students coming to even Staten Island and the Borough President wanting to meet with them- nuh uh. But that may also speak to the cultural differences of inter-personal relationships. All I know is they need to make a song about us, Yankee Doodle style. The meetings, thought- back to a serious note- were very useful to stage a cultural understanding and also help us understand the differences and gaps that exist between the local governments and the central governments. Everyone here is preaching that it is better now with the governemnt decentralized, but even in these counties, the main areas of business and access to the government is in the capital of the county...

We then did a training on basically introductory research methods, questions, recognizing when to intervene in a conflicts, etc for a local youth organization called Voices of the Future. They are youth from 15-20 yrs old that host a show on the private radio that promotes peace-building. And they said they would talk about what we taught them on the upcoming show. Then the next day we observed a training held by the Gender Office in conjunction with the NRC (Norwegian Refugee Council), focusing on GBV with the group of men- called "Wise Men". And the follwoing day the Wise Women group. It was very interesting observing both and comparing. The men were clearly more educated and literate, while the women struggled. Also the men discussed privileges and restrictions of men and women, comparing traditional practices to what is. One question in particular was, "Are women in Liberia in encouraged to be leaders?". And the man asnwering gave a very abstract answer, commenting on how God made all of us equal and everyone has Human Rights- but he never answered the question and no one pushed him to answer the question. It was just evidence of the fact that these concepts have not natural progressed throughout society. There is a large contribution of impostional values, created by NGOS or Western organizations, that provides these people with a vocabulary, but does not allow for them to internalize the lessons taught. This is where I started to question our role in providing these trainings, because I am starting to feel as if it is all superficial and people's hearts and minds really are not being changed. The same is true for when they use the word peacebuilding- they use it because they know the West values it in conflict areas, but I doubt they really know what it means and so we are trying to fill that gap more clearly when we hold trainings- a task for this upcoming week.

The one thing I did feel good about was the private radio station- Atlantic Radio- airing 24hrs a day different programming, allowing the community to come and speak about social issues and also asking officials ot come and explain the new referendum process coming up. The even had a show called, "Meet the Press"...hint hint to who there idol is? Also, the activness of the youth in sure sensitive, heavy issues is inspiring. I can;t imagine American youth forming groups on their own- outside of school- to work in the community and be knowledgeable about teenage pregnancy, family disputes, rape, and land disputes. Instead the youth of America is just concerned with themselves, given a few exceptions of kids that start NGOs at the age of 10, but even that is not necessarily just for the community. It is again a cultural difference of were our values and priorities lie. Here community comes above everything.

So after a week of working here and there- the weekend has arrived. Yesterday we went for ice cream, then played a little pool and taught Hashme how to play. Boy do I wish I had a picture of it, he held a pool stick like a spear it was hilarious! and surprisingly effective. We then moved onto an outdoor bar and restaurant where we danced a bit, but tonight is going be the night we all go out together- so I will report back on the dress code of Liberian women and any traumatizing experiences that may ensue.

Gotta maintain a balanced life....

And looking forward to next week, we will be going to Cape Mount (right by Sierra Leone, maybe rack up another visit to a different African country?) , so updates to come upon my return.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

LONE STAR GAME DAY!

Any other Sunday, would be a day for church and nothing else, considering all the stores are closed. But today was a qualifying game for the Africa Cup, between Liberia and Cape Verde. The forecast wasn't looking good for Liberia coming in, having lost the last two games and tied a third- they needed to win tonight and then continue to do so for the next two games in order to have a chance. So tonight was going to be a show either way, though it was the side shows that kept things interesting. We bought our tickets for 10 dollars and was placed on the side of the players bench closer to one of the nets. Our presence definitely was not missed. We cut the line essential making me put my head down and hands out (awkward turtle style), because I was willing to wait in line as much as the next person. But the staff came up to us at two different points to usher us through, almost causing a riot at one point. But once we were in we were welcomed among those around us, we even caught some of the players attentions do to all of us in a concentrated area- extra white. And get this, sitting behind me- Sammy, is heading to Staten Island this weekend, Park Hill mom- so if you pass bye I told him to give you a shout out. Just the craziest thing.

Then we were all waving our one dollar Liberian flags, swaying and chanting- giving it our all and next to our section a fight broke out. Now I know we may see some spats between fans at US games, but let me tell you we have something to learn. One man was choking another against a fence while proceeded to punch him- but the police broke that up. Figures they should with the national army present, the police force, UN peacekeepers and even taekwando practitioners. So after that another incident sprouted up- a man fainted and was escorted out stretcher style, to only be followed by a woman passed out- who they lifted over the fence to get out. That section was just plagued with issues. And just as I was feeling lucky to be sitting at a distant, trouble entered two rows down, aka too close for comfort. He was this huge, domination Liberian man- that I imagined would be a warlord in the civil war, who took some mans seat and proceeded to argue with him. Others around us tried to stop him from physically fighting and in the end they flirted between being friends and fighting, but oddly enough none of us CR people spoke up to stop the "conflict". I was for the first time afraid of a person- it was this look of disregard and hatred in this eyes that made me think he is a loose canon. And if that wasn't enough I had to make eye contact with him- someone threw a can of full beer square at his face because he was yelling and I- in shock- put my hand over my mouth in a gasp. He saw this and first, thought it was me ,to which I was like- nah uh no way- and second apparently I foudn out that motion also means shut up. Thankfully though he did not advance towards me and if he did the locals around me had my back. So not only was that one of the scariest moments- I missed the damn goal. So at this point it is Liberia 1 and Cape Verde 0.

Half time came and I was definitely the half time show- no doubt. My dancing skill proved to be essential yet again, winning people's hearts, food and attention. Just the fact that I try to dance with them and like them puts me into good status with them and allows me to enjoy myself in the process. Though I am also certain someone was video tapping it on their phone- so I may be viral soon...then half time ended and the game proceeded. Some close calls, but it looked as if Liberia was going to pull it off and so naturally, to prevent people from storming the field the taekwando was the first line of defense and the army the second all around the fences. Then the end came- LIBERIA WON- AND bam people got through anyway. To which we made our escape out of the stadium. The amount of people reminded me of exiting inauguration and the mass crowds, but we managed. Also, just as I was starting to think Liberians aren't as forward as Kenyans, marriage proposals occurred, compliments and lots of cat calling. Though I can;t say I didn't expect it- if there was ever a time it was a football match with hundreds of men around. So we just laughed and took it in stride and even in the car as we snailed along due to traffic, a man came up to the window on the motorbike confessed his love, proposed and when rejected took the Liberian flag on the window- rude.

So the day turned into one filled with football and traveling back and forth- though the weather held off thankfully. And so it turned into the normal water show- that is me walking, but a bright side I never need chap-stick or lotion..

Hopefully it remains this way tomorrow. The groups are spliting for the weeks here on out. Two groups will be away for the five days, until Friday in different counties. While my group commutes to Margihbi county to a town called Kakata to do trainings in mediation- or what they call here palava management. So later this week I will try to upload pictures...let week two begin!

Friday, June 3, 2011

"This too is Liberia"

Oh boy. I am going to try to cover all that has occurred in the past couple of days- jeez I should get paid for this stuff. I figured I would start with the quote above, "this too is Liberia". My friend Hashme, from Don Bosco, told us that Liberians say it because all over the place the government is promoting the idea that Liberia is back on its feet and doing well. Though this may be true in some areas, he says they forget sometimes the poorer parts of the country and so it is said in jest and as a reminder.

For me I was basically shouting this we were driving along the poorly paved roads and approaching the 'bush' village, bouncing around. On Tuesday we left at 6 AM and what was supposed to be a 4 hour drive turned into 7. And it was not an ordinary drive, or traffic induced. The road was clear for the most part and we were going 70, but the road was just a mess after we left the city. We were a three car convoy and I was riding in the hum-v, a.k.a bigger rough car which does not mean comfortable. We piled in and hit the road each car practically racing each other. It was very reminiscent of mario kart- a game played the night before I left, though unlike my performance as there, our car this time was winning. It was a who can get there the fastest without hitting people on the side of the road, dodging potholes and not stopping. We finally reached Ganta and got to our hotel, which my roommate Ijauma (She is an American-Nigerian) and I shared a bed. She is such a character there are not even enough words to describe her, but we get along very well.

Then the next morning we left for Glaalay- see before I wasn't even close. This if you recall was supposed to be 3 hours and turned into 5hr. Why you ask? Hmm let me think- oh right- it must have been the 70 mph we were going on the pot hole filled roads which caused us to change our tire. And let me tell you one of my greatest fears in the U.S. is being stuck in the middle of nowhere by myself and having to change my tire. Thankfully this time Jones- our drive and my main squeeze- is a mechanic and did it one two three. But part of the problem was that origniallyt we picked the wrong tire to change. So we changed it back and continued onward into through some villages that had refugees and Liberians together and then into the jungle and mud to get to the village of our final destination, closet to the border- but not before we had another tire change. Yes, three tire changes in 5 hours- just my car; Jones sure knows how to make his girl feel special. But oddly enough I wasn't even concerned because I knew that they would figure out a way to get us there. And sure enough we arrived- late- but to singing children, literally. Then we headed up to the com,unity area and meet the leaders and basically the elders and who ever wanted to come. I meet another friend there, the chief elder named Gbeadeh Burnie, who gave me my Gio African name (we'll second- I didn't want to make him feel less important) Nenser, which means to bear a child with pride, very fitting considering some call me Mamastelli. And so now I have this name and then my Kikuyu name Njere.

From here our groups split up and did our assignments. There were three responsibilities divided among teams: assess the refugee community, assess the host community and train the staff of center for Peace and Justice Studies living in the community on assessment, mediation and dialogue. My group was responsible for the training which we had to design and run, at first I was upset with not interacting for 3 hours with the community directly, but things went differently than expected. It was interesting trying to break down the concepts during the training into ideas they would understand, language was also a barrier for some french speaking people- but Cecily stepped up her translating game. Overall, I was very pleased with the way it went, Andrea- who is a professor at Georgetown and an external evaluator of the program- said our group had the most successful session, so naturally my competitive side was pleased. but most of all I was just glad that the participants ( about 20 of them) were happy with what was taught and learned something by the end. Also, we did get to interact with the community outside of that and I learned about the issues from the staff as well, which I cross referenced with the other groups.

The main points of contention are land. Their are 3,000 people in the community, on top of 8,634 refugees in this village alone. The refugees come over the border, go to a transit center for two weeks and are relocated to homes or structure built for them by UNHCR or groups like Don Bosco. The structures are usually one room homes, but look pretty sturdy. The issue then is not only overcrowding, but a strain on resources. The village is so far out it was the last to received rice from teh WFP (World Food Programme) and even so they all share it the hosts and refugees. There was also different points raised over Ivorian women marrying Liberian men considering women and children were the first to come over- so that creates tension between the Liberian women as well as the husbands from Cote D'Ivoire when they joined their family. The refugees understand they have overstayed their welcome and are grateful for the hospitality, but don't want to return empty handed to Cote D"Ivoire for fear of humiliation of those who stayed. They also at teh same time, feel humiliated having to work for their host families at times, because the refugees have skills but just not anywhere to start utilizing them. The Liberians on the other hand also feel a strain, but would never ask the refugees to leave, because during their civil war they fled as well and recognize the difficult situation. The discourse is filled with mixed feelings of those advocating for an assisted return, while others are trying to improve the situation as is. And when it comes down to it the major issue underlying all others was food security- because they feel if they are well-feed they can work, or go out and find work, etc.

After leaving Glaaday we drove back to Ganta, to spend one more day meeting with a local school, the mayor of the town, the center for concerned women and many youth groups. The youth groups consisted of FLY (Federation of Liberian Youth), Intervisinary Arts (responsible for dramas) and the Motorcyclists Union. We just talked with these groups about the issues Ganta faces and how the youth addresses it. The mayor seemed to be the only person in government trying to fix the land contentions and said he spends 70% of his time on those, leaving gaps in other areas. Then we watched a drama that one group made representing war time about a cousin who flees due to the war and leaves her boyfriend behind to only have him become involved with her cousin who said she was dead. Long story short shit went down and basically the guy got off easy- go figure. Definitely lead to some further conversations about gender roles here though in the car, nothing of which I have not heard before; men having girlfriends or many wives being a tradition for some tribes, blah blah double standard because women don't have boyfriends on the side. We also discussed the election of Ellen Johnson Sirleaf and many agreed it was good for her to be elected, but now she is lying if she runs again because she said she would say one term until peace was restored- which really has two clauses. One term and peace restored, and so the man I was discussing this with Seukeu Tuah ( like suckitoya) siad peace was restored so now it was time to leave. And Jones said he would like a woman president again because they are more honest- so again just a variety of viewpoints within a society, so the saying depends who you speak to really holds true here.


Along the drives I also befriend Martha who works for Don Bosco and Jones further, as well as Collins the other driver. Martha is in her 30s and is still trying to do work she enjoys, which I admire. I feel as if the society differs from the U.S. in this manner now because women have families first then think of aspirations later, whereas in the U.S. career and education generally comes first. Jones I foudn out has seven children all in Monrovia still and Collins has nine, three in Ghana the rest in Liberia and the way they talk about their family just makes me admire them because they are able to still talk about their families in a loving manner, rather than a burden which I feel that many children could have the tendency to be. We took some liberties as driving and stopped at the Guinea border a few minutes from our hotel in Ganta and actually walked across the border- no passport necessary or immigration form. It was white privilege at its finest. So technically I have now been to 5 African countries- wahoo only 49 more to go!

Also along the drives, besides conversations the images we saw were impressive. The land is so green it is beautiful, but then it can be green green green, full full full, BAM empty and black because of all the rubber trees they plant and harvest. And one image that will stick in my mind is this one of a woman in one of these empty spaces with trees cut down around her, ash still present sitting under her tent of palm leaves cooking as her five children ran around in this place, to me it seemed destroyed, but to them it was their own personal playground.

This too is Liberia.

Monday, May 30, 2011

post 24 hours...

So now being here for longer than 24 hours I already have a lay of the land down. On Monday, we went to the city center or "downtown" for lunch and to exchange money ,etc. It was not what I thought it would be. I was expecting some taller buildings and more businesses or offices, but it basically was just more condensed business and people. It did not remind me of a capital, as most think of, with tall buildings or public transportation. The main means is either walking or taxi- there are even bus or matatus- just plain strange. Lunch on the other hand was pretty good, I had jollof rice which is semi spicy with meat and corn in it. I also tried fufu just because it sounded fun and foudn out it has a large resemblance to ugali- an east african dish. Though don't cringe your face just yet for those of you who know it- this fufu was actually better: it managed some taste and was smoother! I thought immediately someone should bring this to East African they are missing out!

Then we went and had an official introductory meeting with Don Bosco at their office. Don Bosco itself was founded in 1992 to help with the displacement of children and then in 1997 is helped with the disarmament of 12,600 child soldiers. The mission is to help children/youth reintegrate into society acting as a temporary safe haven and then aiding in the process of reunification and reconciliation. It was much more organized meeting than I had expected, granted the day got away from us as the time's of activities was pushed back and back. All good though, I can't say I expected anything more. But anyway at this meeting, we meet 5 staff members, including those that will come out with us to the field assignments, which we also received today. My group, which consists of Jess, Danny, and Cecily will be going to Marigibi and commuting each day, then Cape Mount Country where we will be sleeping while working there and then finally Montserrado another commuting area from where we are currently.

We left after this briefing and enjoyed a nice dinner on the beach. Though the water and waves are beautiful, the beach itself was littered- almost reminiscent of what Staten Island South Beach once looked like. As we reached the resturant thoguh it become neater and Cecily commented on the surrealness of the situation. Who would have thought we would be enjoying a beachside dinner in Liberia on a conflict resolution trip. And this is where I started thinking, that people assume areas in which there has been conflict have no value left to them- let alone beauty. I think this assumption also carries over to the developing world where we are plagued with images of disease, poverty and uncleanliness- thought there are just as many wonderful locations to take comfort in. Just a thought.

Anyway tomorrow at 7:30 am we shall be driving to Nimba, 4 hours tomorrow to
Ghanta ( I think that is how you spell it) and then 3 hours the next day to Ghimba ( again unclear). Basically, refugees galore a.k.a friends for me!

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Touchdown...

..in the land of the delta blues in the middle of the pouring rain. Although this line is from the song, "Blue Suede Shoes", there are many similarities to my first few short hours here in Monrovia. We touch downed with Delta airlines, with rain to follow shortly. The journey here was not as long as it seemed. I was able to sleep most of the way and entertain myself with new friends for the rest. I spoke to a group of H.S. Georgia students coming to Monrovia to build and do "programing", a.k.a probably missionary trip-but we can all look forward to a tag on facebook in the picture I took with them at the airport. I also began talking to my neighbor on the plane, Eugene. He is a pharmacist from Ghana, who went to school in the U.K. and was just attending a conference in Baltimore. On the side, he is part of the African Peace Network, a Ghanaian organization responsible for programming regarding conflict-prevention. So Eugene and I had many things to discuss once I told him there was 12 students from university accompanying me to Monrovia for peacebuilding work. It was the epitome of cross-cultural communication, consisting of a global exchange of opinions on an international flight-. He had some interesting views that I felt crossed over into my realm of theory when studying PCR. He talked of greed and poverty driving conflicts and that in Ghana- who has never had a civil war- it is not tribal lines that concern him, but religious differences when combined with poverty, sparks conflict. The creation of a war helps create opportunities for illegal smuggling of items that outways regular means of an income. He also introduced a new concept, of counterfeit medicine production as the new income generator for smaller groups of smugglers and people. It is not diamonds or hard drugs anymore, because there are international conventions and too much awareness- but he insisted the counterfeit medicine production is more difficult to track. He continued the thread of greed as a casual factor when we discussed the Cote D'Ivoire situation and how Mbagbo should have relinquished power when he lsot the election. Eugene, though was more concerned I think for his own country of Ghana due to the influx of refugees. He insists that the community of refugees is culturally intergrated and welcomed, but does not deny that it is a strain on the resources- especially the health sector- that Ghana provides. We exchanged contact info and hope to communicate in the future. His faith in the international community to provide answers and assistance astounded me and I look forward to having more conversations with Eugene via email.

As for Monrovia itself, first impressions were quite different than my experience in East Africa. The airport was tiny, barren almost and the only plane on the field was ours. The drive from the airport to Don Bosco's Lutheran Guest House was about an hour drive, as we filled three vans, some- myself- in the trunk. As we drove I saw a very tropical landscape. We are very near the beach and the water was always insight, followed by palm trees and many green spaces. The houses were spread apart, though still clustered and the squatter homes used the indigenous materials from the palm trees to weave walls for their homes. I also saw crafters along the side selling their work for the day and small shops that seem to be common- considering unemployment rate is very high and people are trying to sell whatever they can. The car ride also including a sighting of former president Taylor's home, which of course lead to discussions about the upcoming elections- something I hope to learn more about.

The group is good. I definitely feel better about the people I am here with, having time to bond in the airport and car rides. We also tonight went out for dinner together- not a traditional meal- but good none the less. While we were at dinner, it started pouring again. The sound was equivalent to Niagra Falls- fo real. The strength came and went and so we braved the storm. The man at the resturant offered to take the umbrella from the tables outside and walk us, but we let him be and walked. Needless to say walking in the dark, in the ran with, roads with potholes= not the safest but fun! I also felt as if I was treading across a river and some points, but hey the way you sweat here I welcomed the rain shower and my butt stayed dry! Though, the local residents here at the house felt immensely sorry for us- as if they felt responsible because this is there country. I have to say from what I have seen of the local population, they are just as friendly as the East Africans I have encountered. They are always looking to help and open to talk- so I see no issues making friends here, but don't worry mom, I will still keep my wits.

Tomorrow, we are having an introductory day- exchanging money, going to the office of Don Bosco- the organization we are working with. We will be downtown and I will have more to say about the nature of the city, because as I see it now it reminds me more of the smaller towns around Nairobi or in Western Kenya. Then easing into the day- considering that this week we head to Nimba. Nimba is on the border of the Cote D'Ivoire, in Liberia and has about 3,000 people to its regular population + now the added refugees. The car ride is apparently 6+ hours, considering it is on the Eastern part of the country- but this is where I am thankful Lorraine's motion sickness has not passed to me.

I will try my best to keep up with this considering, it takes a while for my email to load and internet is spotty. I also put on the page news feeds concerning Liberia and the website of the Lutheran House we are at. Hopefully, at the end of the week I will have more stories and even put up photos.